As always thanks for all the knowledge you continue to share. I still remember meeting you in 2010, you were teaching a class at CFC in Maine in the adjacent shop. I was able to observe the class throughout the two weeks I was there. We had a conversation about why you paint your furniture over lunch. I am literally that person who would have said “but the grain!” You very kindly and calmly explained your view and immediately changed my viewpoint on wood, finishing and woodworking, for the better.
Now on to my two cents on finishing. For the varnishing step, if you are still curious and willing to experiment, try out Le Tonkinois. You can find it at solventfreepaint.com. I have been messing around with it over the years and has been my go to when I want a varnish. More recently, I have been experimenting with Heron Paints linseed oils. I have been amazed at the build and sheen of the double boiled linseed oil. I still need to do more experimenting and durability testing, but so far applied thin and simply, it seems to fully cure in less than 24 hrs. Travis, owner of Heron Paint, has been very generous in sharing info. He washes and processes the linseed oil himself, and gets the raw cold pressed oil from farms here in the USA. My limited time messing around with his various oils has genuinely changed my mind about linseed oil (which I had mostly abandoned).
Last note, if you have not tried Hassui Ceramic, you really should. It’s wild stuff. I have been using it on spoons and some other woodenware for about a year, and it still boggles my mind. Got to let the stuff cure for 20 days for woodenware, but it’s dry to the touch in hours. Jarrod and Jasmine sell it through their website: woodspirithandcraft.com
I’ve been experimenting with Heron paint as well and am very excited about it, and I’ll get the ceramic stuff and give it a try, thanks for the tip. I appreciate your recollection of our meeting!
Thanks for the post Pete, much appreciated. My question: is there a reason why you wouldn't suggest the old default oil-varnish made of equal parts of boiled linseed oil, Minwax spar (or other resin varnish), and odourless mineral spirits?
I’m also curious about some of the products Pete tried and discarded. I’ve been happy with the Osmo polyx hard wax oil, but I’m easily swayed if that didn’t perform as well as the recipie listed here.
This is super helpful! I've typically just used soft waxes and oils on things I make for my own home, because I can easily reapply finish when someone forgets a coaster. However, lately I've been making more stuff for friends and have worried about durability. Sounds like this approach gives a great balance.
You've convinced me: I'm going to paint my little bistro table for the new kitchen, but I'm going to use your clear finish technique for my two Temple Stools. A relief! I have so many painted surfaces in this part of the house that I was going back and forth...but I had a chance to see this newly clear-finished Temple Stool in your shop last week, and that does it for me! Thank you, as always, for giving us so much knowledge and so many ideas!
For what its worth I've had excellent results with 100% pure tongue oil. It can be thinned with mineral spirits as required, more for initial applications for penetration an sealing, less for subsequent coats to control build and sheen. It polymerizes into a durable, waterproof film that is easy to maintain and repair.
Tongue oil is Durable, easy to control and apply adding a subtle amber tone. The only drawback is that it requires patience between coats (24 - 48 hours) to allow for a proper cure.
As always thanks for all the knowledge you continue to share. I still remember meeting you in 2010, you were teaching a class at CFC in Maine in the adjacent shop. I was able to observe the class throughout the two weeks I was there. We had a conversation about why you paint your furniture over lunch. I am literally that person who would have said “but the grain!” You very kindly and calmly explained your view and immediately changed my viewpoint on wood, finishing and woodworking, for the better.
Now on to my two cents on finishing. For the varnishing step, if you are still curious and willing to experiment, try out Le Tonkinois. You can find it at solventfreepaint.com. I have been messing around with it over the years and has been my go to when I want a varnish. More recently, I have been experimenting with Heron Paints linseed oils. I have been amazed at the build and sheen of the double boiled linseed oil. I still need to do more experimenting and durability testing, but so far applied thin and simply, it seems to fully cure in less than 24 hrs. Travis, owner of Heron Paint, has been very generous in sharing info. He washes and processes the linseed oil himself, and gets the raw cold pressed oil from farms here in the USA. My limited time messing around with his various oils has genuinely changed my mind about linseed oil (which I had mostly abandoned).
Last note, if you have not tried Hassui Ceramic, you really should. It’s wild stuff. I have been using it on spoons and some other woodenware for about a year, and it still boggles my mind. Got to let the stuff cure for 20 days for woodenware, but it’s dry to the touch in hours. Jarrod and Jasmine sell it through their website: woodspirithandcraft.com
I’ve been experimenting with Heron paint as well and am very excited about it, and I’ll get the ceramic stuff and give it a try, thanks for the tip. I appreciate your recollection of our meeting!
Thanks for the post Pete, much appreciated. My question: is there a reason why you wouldn't suggest the old default oil-varnish made of equal parts of boiled linseed oil, Minwax spar (or other resin varnish), and odourless mineral spirits?
Rob, I like the tung oil because it doesn’t yellow like linseed and the hard wax helps even out sheen, which can be tricky as varnish builds up
I’m also curious about some of the products Pete tried and discarded. I’ve been happy with the Osmo polyx hard wax oil, but I’m easily swayed if that didn’t perform as well as the recipie listed here.
I’m sure Oromo is similar and just as suitable
I am curious how the wax product is called “hard” even though it uses paraffin. Perhaps hard is a designation for a finish that cures?
Not sure Steve, but it acts pretty tough
This looks great. Definitely still a bit punk rock. Do you give the oil/varnish a longer cure time before the hard wax oil or doesn’t it need it?
I haven’t found it necessary but doubt it would hurt
This is super helpful! I've typically just used soft waxes and oils on things I make for my own home, because I can easily reapply finish when someone forgets a coaster. However, lately I've been making more stuff for friends and have worried about durability. Sounds like this approach gives a great balance.
On a separate note, apologies, but any luck on finding a machinist for your caliper? I’m planning on purchasing one when they become available.
Yes! Should be in stock soon!
You've convinced me: I'm going to paint my little bistro table for the new kitchen, but I'm going to use your clear finish technique for my two Temple Stools. A relief! I have so many painted surfaces in this part of the house that I was going back and forth...but I had a chance to see this newly clear-finished Temple Stool in your shop last week, and that does it for me! Thank you, as always, for giving us so much knowledge and so many ideas!
“…and most get me high.” 🤣
For what its worth I've had excellent results with 100% pure tongue oil. It can be thinned with mineral spirits as required, more for initial applications for penetration an sealing, less for subsequent coats to control build and sheen. It polymerizes into a durable, waterproof film that is easy to maintain and repair.
Tongue oil is Durable, easy to control and apply adding a subtle amber tone. The only drawback is that it requires patience between coats (24 - 48 hours) to allow for a proper cure.